My mother's grandfather, Nuno (Giuseppe Buccelli), was born outside of Naples in Mirabella. Nuno emigrated to America when he was around 17 years old. Nuno had 5 brothers. Several of Nuno's brothers came to America as well, but at least 1 remained in Italy. After Nuno's first wife (Mimi's grandmother) passed away, Nuno married Nana, who Mimi dearly loved.
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Mimi and Duff with Nana and Nuno |
When Nuno's youngest daughter was born, he named her Louise Helena in honor of Queen Helena, the Queen of Italy (1900 to 1946).
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Making gravy with Auntie Louise. |
When my mother was young, she and Aunt Louise spent a lot of time together. As I was growing up, I was fortunate to spend a lot of time with Aunt Louise as well. She was a lot of fun.
Duff once asked me why, wherever we went, Aunt Louise was always there. I remember asking him, "Why wouldn't Aunt Louise be there? She is one of your wife's closest relatives!" Lowering his head and looking at me over the top of his glasses Duff then said, "But she doesn't drive".
Aunt Louise was an exceptional cook. In this picture, we're making sauce, or "gravy", at my apartment.
Louise always bought the freshest, highest quality ingredients to make her "recipes". Everything was made from scratch, including the pasta dough. Making the dough was a daylong project. Louise would take handfuls of flour and make a flour mound with a well in the middle. One by one, she would drop a large egg yolk into the well, gradually incorporating the flour with the eggs, using her hands. By the time the last egg was added, the flour would be mixed with the dough -- and the entire kitchen would be covered in a light dusting of flour.
Aunt Louise never wrote any of her recipes down. Years ago I found a cookbook, written by Sophia Loren, that is full of recipes that remind me of Aunt Louise's cooking. Italian cooking is regional. Sophia grew up in the same part of Italy, in Pozzuoli, a small city outside of Naples. In her cookbook, Sophia Loren's Recipes and Memories cookbook, Sophia writes:
"Learn the rules of the kitchen well by doing. For the true cook is born when, having assimilated the rules, he or she begins to improvise, to move among the ingredients with a sense of freedom and imagination. Don't be a slave to recipes, to weights and measures, but let your convictions, and above all, love, guide you. In other words, you must be convinced that cooking is an act of love, a gift, a way of sharing with others the little secrets - piccoli segreti - that are simmering on the burners."
Although Sophia may have hired a talented ghost writer to write these words, I recognize the sentiment -- cooking as an act of love and a gift -- it's something that was shared by my Aunt Louise and all the other wonderful cooks I've known throughout the years.
Here's Sofia's recipe for pasta dough:
Fresh Pasta Dough
4 Cups all purpose flour
6 large egg yolks
salt
Note: Use flour milled with hard wheat. Pasta made from other types of wheat becomes mushy and limp when cooked and sometimes cooks unevenly.
Make a mound of flour on a work surface. Make a well in the center and drop egg yolks in, one at a time, gradually incorporating the flour. Add a pinch of salt. By the time the final egg has been added, all or almost all the flour should have been incorporated.
Flour your hands and knead the dough until a smooth solid, uniform mass is formed. Maintain a steady rythym and be patient; the process may take 15 to 20 minutes depending on the pressure you exert and other conditions, including weather. If the dough seems too moist, add a bit of flour. Or, if it is too dry, add a tablespoon of water.
Cover the dough and allow it to rest for about 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured table and knead it again for a few minutes. Divide the dough into two pieces and, using your hands, stretch it a bit. You can then use a rolling pin to roll it out to the appropriate thickness for the type of pasta you will be making. Or you can use a pasta machine, preferably a manual one.
If you are using a pasta machine, pass the dough through the widest setting 10 or 12 times. Then, beginning again with the widest, continue to pass the dough through, narrowing the setting each time. Finally, cut the pasta into the desired shape on the machine or by hand.
Storing your noodles
To roll out her “noodles”, Aunt Louise had a cast iron pasta maker that screwed onto the side of her kitchen
table like a carpenter's vise. Once she rolled out her noodles to the desired thickness, she would gently place them in Filene's dress boxes lined with waxed paper. The dress boxes were kept in the refrigerator. Whenever she came to visit us, Aunt Louise always walked in the door with Filene's boxes full of pasta. and her delicious cookies. If she arrived without any noodles, or for an extended visit, her cast iron pasta maker would be crooked under her arm like a favorite handbag.
Baked Lasagna
Here's Aunt Louise's baked lasagna
recipe. It's very rich. The tomato sauce or “gravy” as Louise always called it, is a Ragu alla Napoletana.
This recipe is very heavy...literally. You’ll need a pretty big lasagna pan. When
my sister Mary got married, Aunt Louise gave her an industrial lasagna pan that was so big it didn't fit in Mary's oven.
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In front of the cooktop in my mother's kitchen with Aunt Louise and my sister Mary |
Here's Mimi's recipe for sauce:
Tomato
Meat Sauce
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1/4 cup olive oil
- 1 clove garlic (or more!)
- 1/2 cup chopped onion
- handful of fresh chopped parsley
- 1/2 pound of beef and pork (which may be substituted with 1 pound of Italian chicken sausages)
- 1 28 oz can Italian tomatoes (I like to use Muir Glen fire roasted)
- 6 oz tomato paste
- 1 cup good red wine
- 1 tsp of salt
- 1 tsp of sugar (to reduce the acidity of the tomatoes
- 1/2 tsp white pepper
- 1/2 tsp chopped basil
- 1 bay leaf
Heat olive
oil in a saucepan. Add meat, garlic, onion, parsley, and brown slowly. Stir to
prevent burning. Remove garlic when brown. Add tomato paste and cook for 2 to 3
minutes, add tomatoes, wine, salt, pepper and sugar, and simmer for 1 hour. Add
basil and cook a few minutes longer. If sauce becomes too thick while simmering
add 1/4 to 1/2 cup water.
If the thought of making lasagna is too overwhelming (yes), or just too rich (yes, but I don't care), as an alternative you could make Sophia Loren's Baked Pasta with your Tomato Meat Sauce.